Bower Beams Medium Reviews

5 Rating 2 Reviews
Read Permagard Reviews

Medium Bower Beams
Bower beams are the simple solution for joist and beam end repair. Any joist or beam end in direct contact with a wet wall will eventually succumb to fungal attack and decay (rot) and lose its strength. It may even break. If the beam or joist breaks then you are looking at replacement which is expensive and time consuming.These medium sized bower beams are manufactured in 2mm steel by Permagard. They are protected by a galvanised finish and can be used as a quick, cheap and easy as well as secure and long lasting replacement.
Independent tests have shown that the Bower Beam is capable of withstanding loads in excess of the design loads of the wooden joists that they are supporting. They also  isolate them from the source of dampness and further risk.
All Bower Beams are supplied as a pair with 8 x coach bolts for fixing.
Bower Beam Installation:
1. Cut away the affected timber from 150mm up to 425mm from the joist end.2. Offer up the two halves of the Bower Beams to the joist and slide forward into the socket. Temporarily secure with nails.3. Drill the required number of pilot holes for the coach screws (not opposite each other).4. Tighten down the coach screws. Note: a blocking piece will be necessary on large cut backs to fasten down the floor boards. Joist widths from 50mm upto 150mm can be replaced by this method.
Bower Beam Sizes:
Small = 100mm x 550mm for a cut back of up to 150mmMedium = 100mm x 655mm for a cut back of up to 225mmLarge = 150mm x 1020mm for a cut back of up to 430mm
Additional Treatment:
Dry Rot
Requires removal of plaster and exposure of brickwork adjacent to the outbreak. This may be extensive and care should be taken to examine brickwork around adjacent woodwork such as skirtings, doorframes and window frames. Fungicidal sterilisation of the masonry and sub floor is necessary. All of the floor timbers must be given fungicidal treatment. The source of the dampness must be eliminated.
Wet Rot
Does not require removal of plaster as part of the treatment. Clean and treat all sound timbers in the vicinity of the outbreak. The source of dampness must be eliminated. Timbers should be treated with a Dual Purpose Timber Treatment
Click through for more on identifying and treating wet and dry rot or browse more restraints. 

Visit Product Page
They seem strong, more detailed instructions would be helpful with pictures. If you don't cut the end of the joist at a sharp angle you can't remove the offcut without cutting it again which is then hard as it's not fixed to anything. I would make a first cut next to the wall, then make a cut further away next time. That way you can easily slide out both pieces. Once the beams are in place and blocking piece fitted to fix floorboards to, it leaves you with a gap in the bricks where the joist end has been removed. I guess this should be filled with cement? But not sure if that's a good idea because the steel will expend and contract? I may just silicone where the blocking piece meets the wall?
Helpful Report
Posted 8 months ago
Hi Gary. Thanks for your feedback. The blocking piece can be cut to fit the section of joist that has been removed, so that it doesn’t leave you with a void in the brick. Alternatively, if you have cut a shorter blocking piece, just leave the void as is, there’s no real need to fill. If you would like to talk about this further, please give us a call on 01179 823 282.
Posted 8 months ago
Author didn't leave any comments.
Helpful Report
Posted 3 years ago